Відео

The Russian stuff should be great! They made tons of tubes a lot more recently than most of our new old stock ones. Those may be relatively new.

Stock Drive Parts catalog could help?

On cabinets like that I use Minwax Dark Walnut Stain. Apply a generous amount on a soft cloth and wipe the entire surface. I does wonders at blending in the scratches.

I think that leaving some of those old bumps and bruises keeps the *character* of the set. After all, it *did* survive the Cold War! The quality of the image it produces on the CRT is probably something like it was when it was new, if not maybe a little better. The owner should be pleased with this functioning heirloom!

Wow, excellent find! I have come across several bad 1B3s over the years of working on old TVs- glowing and not rectifying, or going to air.

I have had good results with NOS soviet tubes, years ago someone was selling on ebay Soviet military surplus metal 6A8s, and since most of what my interest in electrical tinkering is from the mid 30s I ordered 6 sleeves of them. Each "sleeve" contained idk, a dozen tubes individually boxed (each containing one tube and one datasheet), the sleeve wrapped in a very thick clear plastic sheet-material like you'd use in a vacuum sealer only there was no vacuum seal. Perhaps as a political message, the soviet military 6A8s had a green & white design on the boxes depicting a pentagon shape. They perform well enough that if I have a tricky osc-mixer stage I will pop one in to see if its the tube or something else for quick troubleshooting. The 6k7s, etc., are so easy to find, cheap and plentiful compared to the mixer that I figured it would make sense to worry about having the 6A8s around and the rest can be easily found (i.e. 6K7s), eliminated (i.e. 1N4007s instead of the rectifiers), or substituted (i.e. audio tubes- sure maybe new bias components needed). The coke bottle soviet 6F6s have been able to take whatever abuse I throw at them, had to use no less than 8 of them in a certain Midwest... those came in plain white boxes, no markings, no datasheets. You'd think they were normal "used" whiteboxes if you didn't notice the type of paper coating is totally wrong, shape is not the same as what we use here and the boxes were stapled together instead of glued. The trays of corrugated cardboard rolls like your 1B3s resemble the stash of NOS 1970s Japanese Toyo 6E5s in that one pallet that was rediscovered about 10 years ago and sold out on eBay. One has to wonder how many pallets of NOS tubes are still out there in warehouses forgotten about.

I have always hated dial belts and mostly do 30s radios where certain brands seem to use them more than others. I had a Sparton 1068 with an original belt that still functioned but looked like it was dragged out of the titanic (falling apart, very aged, and ready to give up at any second). A lot of the replica/repro belts on the market (for radios) are just various types of O-ring material which comes in different shapes and sizes and then is either glued or welded into a loop. But many of these will harden and stop working in a few years and any set I redid belts on 10+ years ago needs it again as the belts have taken on a permanent new shape that stalls out the mechanism. I have heard of experiments using lengths of belt material for vhs/tape players and other electronic-mechanical devices, and I once encountered a motorized set (iirc a westinghouse) where the "belt" was actually a long length of spring-like material (imagine a compressed spring where all the rings are almost touching). This was able to "grip" via friction a plastic and metal pulley... both of which were smooth (no built in ridges) which makes me wonder if something similar to springs can be soldered together in leu of cruddy o-ring plastic. I have seen grebes with dog-tag style chain and atwater kents used metal bands and those hold up pretty good so maybe some kind of metal solution would have the most lasting power.

Nice tubes!

Well I have mostly loose boxes of tubes I collected wherever when I found them from the early 70s up but doubt I have bunches of the rectifier tubes you got. The other problem would be trying to safely pack them up for shipping, plus almost all of them are used though I usually tested them with one of my trusted testers I have. I used to use them to mostly rebuild newer tube and hybrid tvs back in the day and the occasional cool old radio. Keep up the good work and dragging us along for the ride.

I like the old, battle-scarred but still clean and shiny look. The perfect look for what this thing is. Come to think of it, maybe it's the right look for the owner, too.

Hello. Remembered hearing that televisions can act as a... Conduit for the paranormal? Learning a lot, thank you. GG! 🙂🌼💐🧘🍻🔥🤩🎉

I'm wondering if an ordinary rubber o-ring would work. There's kits sold with different sizes.

CRTs had a long run from the Crookes tube of 1897 to the last xxxxP22 color tube of early 2000s. Lots of enhancements along the way, ion traps, metal cones, aluminized phosphor coatings, shadow masks, rare earth metal phosphors, Trinitron. It will be a long time winding down...

Having thought about my comment, I should add that the battery experiment was a brilliant piece of troubleshooting.

A trick i've used to remove stuck knobs is to insert shims made of OHP transparency sheets between the cabnet and knob slowly wedging it away ~0.1mm at a time, i've successfully used this against a knob that was glued on with silicone!

Also, when you are sure the CRT is at EOL, I blow the filament so as to not make a mistake in the future of using it. A mark on the CRT in glass chalk does as well.

Excellent video. When you know what you're doing, it still looks like courage :) When I get to the end of a CRT that will not rejuvenate, I can hold the rej. button down and a orange/red glow will show up in the cathode/G1 space. It is not from arc but the deep element glowing from the high voltage of rejuvenation. I do a bit more rapping, but you pretty did everything.

I've got two 5AXP4s available. One with the yoke kit in the wooden case. The other is just the CRT. Both are tested good in my 5AXP4 project (part 2) . See my web site for the video and electronics projects and contact info, link is on my YT home page.

I have a few crt testors but my favorite is the Beltron that I saw my buddy use back in the day. He told me how to use it and eventually I was given one from a TV shop and I made it work. Later I got a completely rebuilt and updated one on ebay for like 20 shipped. I had to redo some wiring but it wors great and had all the sockets and adapters. I think the last crt I did was a 36 trinitron and it worked well for a short time but they never like being rejuvenated or cleaned. Haven't used any of them in years but they certainly upped the amount of sets i could get running.

i have a b&k 440 to and i hav the schematic i can scan it and emal it to you

It's crazy that little round test CRT that you have I've got one sitting here somewhere that I got when I bought a bunch of stuff from an old TV shop

So sad to hear your test CRT has failed. Hopefully, another one comes along down the pipe soon. As always, enjoyed the video even though it was on a sad note. Glad you did get the tester working though. One prized diagnostic tool going south is enough of a hit to the heart!

My dad had that VTVM IN your catalogue swiveled. .

Hi Bob. One thing here doesn’t make sense: how can the CRT tester “test” for an open grid, when the grid element of the CRT - by design - isn’t supposed to be connected to anything else? Inter-electrode capacitance measurement, maybe? It doesn’t seem like the circuitry of the B&K 440 is sophisticated enough for that.

I hope you get your CRT tester fixed ok. P.S. yeh, I hear you want it pristine. Maybe someone else will prize it for that but also actually be able to fix it, stuffing parts if necessary to keep the original look.

Could you measure capacitance of that grid with respect to some other electrode to see if it's connected? Does the data sheet for that CRT list a bunch of capacitances that you could test for?

Thanks Bob.. The 8XP4 is the small rect CRT taken out of the box..